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Back in June, Alessandro Michele offered the fashion set a light appetizer of his vision as creative director for Valentino. The small but mighty Resort 2025 presentation had all of the designer’s signature elements solidified during his eight years at the helm for Gucci. Luxe fur and ruffled trimming, intricate beading, and nods to bygone eras seamlessly melded with modern touches, and carefree use of bold patterns. Fans of the creative waited with bated breath, anticipating the main course that would be his first complete collection with the legacy Italian house. And on Sept. 29, the fateful moment came in the form of the label’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Pavillon des Folies, an unapologetically romantic and opulent start to his new chapter and creative vision.
On a gloomy Sunday afternoon eager guests — including Harry Styles, Salma Hayek-Pinault, and Elton John — gathered in central Paris to witness Michele’s buzzy debut. The space truly set the scene: a winding runway with lit floor lamps and structures covered in dainty fabric, resembling a long abandoned estate showing subtle signs of life. As the haunting music commenced, a procession of ghosts of the past, present, and future began, showcasing Michele’s reverence for Valentino’s longtime legacy of elegance as well as his rebellious voracity for maximalism.
Immediately noticeable were classic Valentino Garavani design codes. “Valentino red” was prominently honored on the statement bows splashed on printed blazers, tuxedo-inspired dresses, accordion collars, and hosiery. Feminine embellishments like the aforementioned bows, ruffled hems, and lace stockings and gloves were also displayed.
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“When I’m working by myself, with the people of the studio, with Jacopo [Venturini], there is always Valentino somewhere with me,” said Michele to Business of Fashion editor-in-chief Imran Amed in a recent interview. “There is always an open conversation with him because I can feel the things talking to me, through the dresses, the walls.”
But make no mistake, Michele’s undeniable touch is cleverly folded into each look. In the glistening beaded bolero jackets. In the floor-sweeping silk dresses, reminiscent of ‘60s dressing gowns worn by Old Hollywood starlets. In the whimsical print play and splashy use of color. The collection, from start to finish read like a decadent Gatsby-meets-Studio-54 dinner party that ends with a wine-fueled dance number. Only Michele can elicit such vibes.
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“I don’t need to be someone else,” said Michele to Amed. “I think a big designer or a good designer needs to be himself.”
See highlights from the triumphant debut collection below.
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