Sometimes, amid a season of great change, it’s best to go back to one’s roots. Perhaps this is the current strategy of the Chanel creative team. Since the news of designer Virginie Viard’s exit in June 2024, the brand has been a state of transition as it decides on her successor (who will allegedly be announced later this month). But, with or without a leader in place, the show must go on — and it has. After a headline-making presentation in Paris for its Gen Z-coded Spring/Summer 2025 collection, which included Riley Keough singing while suspended over an awe-struck crowd, Chanel’s Fashion Creation Studio has pulled yet another rabbit out of its hat for the 2024 Métiers d’Art show in Hangzhou. This one, however, is draped in nostalgia and heritage.
Set against an inky, nighttime backdrop on the city’s majestic West Lake, Chanel presented its vision for pre-fall 2025. A dreamlike sequence that started moody and leather-clad, the collection evolved into a lighthearted, candy-colored collage of tweed and metallic embroidery. In the official show notes, the brand explains that the whimsical flair is indeed intentional and inspired by the travels and “creative universe” of its brand founder as well as the city and country housing its latest venue.
“In this great historic city and tech capital, the collection is inspired by antique Coromandel screens, objects of the intimate sphere, and works of art in Chinese lacquer that Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel loved to surround herself with,” reads the release.
A foundation of classic design codes — tweed sets, quilted handbags and outerwear, camellia flower motifs and accents, and layered chain necklaces — called the spirit of the late founder. But a fresh Eastern breeze came by way of the aforementioned Coromandel screen print splattered on sheer jumpsuits elegantly layered under suiting, adding interest and a unique touch. The vibrant shades from the Chinese lacquerware beloved by Coco shined through in the jade, amber, pink, and soft blue palette seen in the latter half of the collection. The soft, faded denim paired with effortlessly with a coordinating blue tweed jacket is meant to reflect Hangzhou lake water while the “black, brown, and darker tones reference the wood of the panels and velvety steps into the night.”
Nodding to the overlying travel theme were the graphic pockets featured on bags and jacket fronts, suggesting “letter-writing thanks to their envelope-like form.” While less obvious, another jet-set-inspired standout came by way of the sturdy suede slouchy boots and sleeker calf-length riding styles paraded throughout the presentation. (The former touches on a bubbling footwear trend for 2024, likely signaling a new it-girl fave for the new year.)
Ahead, see the highlights from the Chanel Métiers d’Art 2024 show in Hangzhou.
