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A fresh, youthful breeze blew through the newly renovated Grand Palais on Oct. 1, as Chanel helped close out Paris Fashion Week on an energetic note. Guests settled into their seats centered around a giant birdcage in the naturally lit venue, ready to view the Spring/Summer 2025 installment from the maison’s Fashion Creation Studio (who’ve been manning the design operations in the absence of the recently departed Virginie Viard until a successor is announced). While not quite the sporty spectacle that was the Resort 2025 collection, the show read just as spirited and, dare we say, subtly sexy.
Indeed, things kicked off in typical Chanel fashion, with the buttoned-up, traditional tweed suiting and demurely elegant style codes one would expect from the French label. However, cheeky winks came in the form of leg-baring paneled pleating, cropped chiffon blouses, and open, midriff-exposing blazers. Belly chains hung from waists and tiny shorts served as complements to edgy vest and bomber silhouettes. A platform loafer resembling a grown-up version of the black-and-white childhood saddle shoes of yore were a noticeable new addition, signaling a probable it girl shoe for 2025, coming to an Instagram feed near you. From the jump, it’s clear there’s a new Chanel girl in town, and this collection is for her.
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The Chloé-induced bohemian reneaissance is seemingly making its rounds as a parade of free-spirited, sheer looks came in mid-show, breaking up the initial prep roster. Cotton candy hues of pink, aqua blue, limoncello, and robin’s egg blue came by way of flowing silk short and skirt sets. Pretty floral prints were employed for floor-length pant co-ords and shirt dresses. Crochet sets tied neatly at the waist by a brand-coded black ribbon and layered over logoed riding boots, digging into the Gen-Z loved “wrong shoe theory.” The Chanel design team leaned even further into the laid-back vibes, incorporating roomy denim — with sequins paneling and hems — with the occasional chiffon cape or shagged cropped cardigan set.
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Just when you thought the party was over, a final spectacle came in the form of actor Riley Keough, clad in an all-black ensemble and singing from a swing hanging above the runway. Between the youth-coded collection and encore musical performance, a new era of Chanel is well underway. Perhaps the next piece of this puzzle is the inclement announcement of a new creative director. Who knows? The bedazzled denim will tide everyone over in the meantime.
See the highlights from the frothy spring/summer show below.
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