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Amidst the bubble skirt craze that seems to have the fashion industry in a firm chokehold, a close relative seems to have emerged in the form of a sleeker, more structured shape. Yes, at the close of fashion month, a fresh silhouette is materializing on the Paris Spring/Summer 2025 runways: the hourglass mini dress. While similar to the playful nature of its bubbly counterpart, the look is decidedly more polished and edgy.
Seen at a number of shows throughout the week, the dramatic silhouette — which entails a cinched waist that blooms into bell-like skirt — took many forms. At Balmain and Mugler, for example, creative directors Olivier Rousteing and Casey Cadwallader each went a more severe, angular route. Mini dresses featured more geometric, boxy shapes that jutted out abruptly from the hips for a more dramatic, severe effect. Upping the wow factor, Rousteing set the angular styles against face images and striped patterns, all rendered by hand with pearlescent beads. Cadwaller on the other hand, stuck to a more moody “menacing” theme, featuring black hourglass mini dresses with plunging, curving necklines fit for a lustful Morticia Addams.
Balmain | Stephane Cardinale/Corbis Entertainment/Getty ImagesMugler | Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
On the more demure side were labels like Loewe and Acne Studios. For his playful, lighthearted runway romp, Jonathan Anderson sent models down the runway in sparkling sequin mini dresses, with more rounded, cupcake-like finishes that matched the other voluminous, dancing-in-the-wind-like styles featured in the frothy collection. On a similar, yet more refined note, were the cartoon-like LBDs dreamt up by Acne Studios’ Jonny Johansson. Sleeveless, fitted bodices were extravagantly knotted at the top and dramatically ballooned at the bottom, just reaching the upper thigh. The look was cheeky but still had a touch of sweet innocence reminiscent of a grown-up Minnie Mouse.
Loewe | Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho/Getty ImagesAcne Studios | Stephane Cardinale/Corbis Entertainment/Getty Images
True, filled-out mini skirts and dresses are far from a new trend — the aforementioned bubble hem and boxy, mod-like shift dresses have been constant fixtures on runways this month — this more structured, sophisticated hourglass silhouette is bringing the look to more elevated territory. Perfect for a more formal occasion, the style reads immediately elegant, especially when paired with an equally sleek pump or ballet flat.
Although there are still several days until the close of Paris Fashion Week, it seems there’s already a champion trend rising in prominence. It’s going to be a sweet spring, indeed.
